A little known fact about me – I actually have a cow named after me living in a small town in Ireland. Ever since I spent three weeks in County Monaghan in high school, I’ve felt a deep affinity for Ireland, despite having no genealogical ties. Ireland is one of those rare places that actually exceeds its stereotypes (like New York City, California, and Paris). It really is that green. People are that friendly and love to make you laugh. Ireland was the first place I heard a sheep – coincidently sheep exceed expectations too; they really say “baaa, baaaa” – drove on the left side of the road, and fell deeply in love with a country.
I recently re-visited Ireland during the summer. It’s a rare thing to find a place with worse weather than the pacific northwest but I can say that Ireland is just such a place. It was cold and rainy every day for the two weeks I was there in August. Interestingly enough I learned while I was there that in the Gaelic calendar seasons are defined differently. Summer is observed in May, June, and July. I’d recommend either visiting in May – July or bringing a sturdy waterproof coat, warm socks, and a sense of adventure.
While Ireland isn’t known as a culinary destination per say, we managed to find some great places.
Places to Eat in Dublin:
- The Winding Stair – a great little spot in a historic building along the quays of the River Liffey. Thick, old, stripped wood stairs lead you up past a bookstore on the first floor to this spot looking out over the river. The Winding Stair serves traditional Irish food like potted crab, roasted lamb, and seafood chowder that highlight ingredients sourced from local, artisanal farms. We loved this place enough to go back a second time. Everything tasted fresh with flavors perfectly balanced in presentations that felt every bit as approachable as they felt polished.
- Locks Brasserie – Tucked away in a great neighborhood along a canal outside the regular tourist destinations, this fine dining restaurant offers fresh, bright food presented with lots of polish. It’s a great place to visit for a romantic dinner. Dishes feature a lot of fresh seafood and local ingredients.
- The Bakehouse – a cute little café, perfect for breakfast and a pot of tea tucked away along the banks of the River Liffey not far from The Winding Stair. This bakery features traditional baked goods and dishes including lovely scones, fresh baked bread and giant plates of sausages and ham.
- Leo Burdocks – a fish and chips institution in Dublin with several spots, we tried the walk-up spot on Werbugh Street near the Christ Church Cathedral. While there’s nothing healthy about the amount of grease your fish and chips are cooked in or the portion size, it was still an experience we wouldn’t have wanted to miss, especially eating on the Cathedral grounds.